How We Train Flyball or (Ditch The Side Netting)
Article by June Conway
When I first started Flyball training some 10 or more years ago, all training took place in netting with the jumps on the, then minimum, 8 inches. This worked because the dogs did not really have an option, as long as we did ‘Starters’ (netted runs) we did well. Where it failed was when the netting was removed, all be it a bit at a time, in readiness for division, the dogs saw the easier route and ran out. Also when the jump height was increased, due to lack of a height dog, again dogs ran out, it was easier! Yes our dogs did learn Flyball this way, but it took some considerable time and even when they became reliable in training there was the distraction at tournaments of dogs running in the other lane, people watching, extra noise and excitement so, they ran out!
I started training ‘babies’ (new dogs) for the team I was with when we found an extra venue and, started doing it ‘My way’.
I had trained my WSD Rusty with the aid of my Grand-daughter, in the garden using just a set of jumps and some electric fencing posts (just the posts - not the fencing) we got Rusty doing recalls over the jumps skipped the one jump, two jumps, etc etc. Went straight into four jumps, that worked a treat, he was ball mad and happy to race over and fetch the thrown tennis ball, then box loaded and I sent him up (he was already ok with the box) when he ran out on the way back we just put a couple of posts about a foot apart alongside the place he had run out. It worked, and Rusty has never needed wings/netting.
I knew that all dogs being different, training depended on how each one reacted/learned, or not as the case may be. I didn’t believe that ‘set in stone’ training was possible.
When I started Merlins Magicians I determined that I would only ever use Netting as a last resort and I would train, more often than not, over the full height for the dog in training, regardless of having a height dog. It has worked really well for us, we have a set of wings made of fencing posts and netting, bought out only if a dog runs out, used very infrequently and after a couple of runs wound in so that they are just inches wide. This way our dogs learn not to rely on visible ‘aids’ to guide them, or, having a height dog to give lower jumps.
Flyball should be fun, dogs vary in how long it takes to ‘get the message’ a week, a month, or more, we have dogs in Merlins Magicians that have ‘learned’ in a couple of sessions, we also have dogs that have taken six months!
We start each session with a few run-backs, from the box with loud as possible encouragement from the handler who does the jumps calling the dog, which is being held in front the box, the handler throws the ball in a straight line from the last jump whilst still moving away, moving away is important as stopping or turning to face the dog often causes running out around the last jump. Most new dogs are started over the last one then two then three then four, (typical reverse training) some need to be started closer to the jumps when doing all four.
But not all dogs work the same, some are just too keen, get bored with the pussy footing around and want/need to just ‘go for it’ In fact I had one WSD that we were despairing of, he just was not doing well at all, for weeks we were trying to get him to do the jumps he just ran around the wings, which we had resorted to, we started him using the box, low and behold once he had a motive for doing the jumps (triggering the box for the ball) he did fine, there and back.
Lesson? Every dog is different.
After the run-backs with new dogs, the handler is asked to position behind one jump from the box and throw the ball in front of the box (with the box loader standing behind the box) for the dog to retrieve and bring back over the one jump to them, if this is successful, repeat over two jumps etc until all four are being ‘done’. Some dogs don’t need this one, two, three, four, and go from one jump to the four!
Just by watching the dog you can see how quickly to progress. The next lesson involves throwing the ball to the box loader who then holds the ball on top of the center of the box for the dog to fetch, (rolling it down the box front the first few times if the dog is reluctant to take it, or, the handler can bounce the ball off the box) seeing which way the dog turns and, making sure that the box is knocked in the process for the movement needed for triggering. If the dog ‘runs out’ either have someone run alongside to keep him/her, on line or put a wing up for as many times as needed, shortening the wing as previously described.
Following this the box can be primed and fired after the dog has started to run back to check for reaction. If the dog is visibly startled, we leave this for another session and back track to ball in front of the box, end on a good note. If the dog does noy react to the box sound we load and try, only once, lots of praise/treats/what have you, if successful, if not, backtrack. Again stop on the good note.
A couple of points here, firstly as a reward, find out just what motivates the dog. Toy-treat-another ball-loud fuss and praise, and, always treat consistently for correct behavior. Ignore mistakes, do not treat but just ‘do it again’ If this does not work, back track, again, end on a good note, and try again later/next training session. Also everyone present should ‘look’ watch, notice, it is a true saying that ‘the onlooker see most of the game’ We have had a seemingly ‘hopeless ball dropper’ cured by a watcher seeing that he was dropping the ball when his handler shouted, or put her hand into her treat pocket. Handler changed tactics, dog now brilliant.
Once a dog is doing the run and triggering the box the time has come to think about turns. I have found mostly, turns are controlled by when the handler shouts the dog back, too soon and the dog hesitates, too late and he/she almost stops at the box. Get it right and the dog is committed to getting the ball but needs to do it fast because the handler is screaming for his/her return, hey presto……………… he/she whips around.
Some dogs benefit from ‘box work’ When this is the case, we use the cone in front of the box method, forcing the dog to circle on the box front, the position of the cone varies from dog to dog, rule of thumb, the smaller the dog the closer the cone to the box. Unfortunately sometimes the ‘cone method’ can make a dog turn wide and possibly run out, if this happens netting from the box to the first jump turning the dog in can be helpful as a temporary measure.
Now we have the basics, it is ‘Team time’ the dogs have to learn to run as a team, some are team players, and some are not! This is just a case of practice, see what each dog needs, it is best if a dog can run in any position but, no matter how you try, some dogs just have to run either first as they won’t run up against another dog, or last, as they try to get back up knowing another ball has been loaded, and, they are going to get it regardless! Or, some dogs just insist on doing a ‘Lap of Honor’.
Once positions have been sorted changeovers are just a case of slowly closing the gap. Start individual runs with dogs in position to run next, then start letting go as the previous dog passes, then gradually let go sooner until the changeovers are on or near the start gate. I would say here that better a slightly loose changeover than having to run again when competing. One other thing, once you have decided when to ‘let go’ to do a more accurate changeover move yourself and dog either backwards or forwards rather than change when you ‘let go’
Now we have a prospective ‘Flyball Team’ But the biggest problem has yet to be overcome……… Distraction! Dogs that run perfectly in training can go completely haywire under tournament conditions. The main problem is the other team! Other dogs going for other balls! Provided there are enough dogs the ideal is to set up two runs and run as if in competition during training. Start with a netting divider between the runs, gradually getting closer and closer until they are practically alongside (three or four meters!) then, remove the netting, widen the gap and hopefully hey presto! Even with only four dogs, as long as you have six people, two being loud box loaders! This can be done, two in each lane and swop them around.
Ideally, if you have another club in your area maybe they would like a mutually beneficial joint training session?
Article sponsored by Gwbert Lady for the Author: June Conway of Merlin's Magicians Flyball and Agility Team